early season south swell + the best decision I have made in months

you wish you could no paddle take off like dane

@#i*% &u^# (not telling but you should already know) has been in the back of my mind the entire winter;  call me crazy but I cant wait for summer.  I love south swells and orange county.  Joking in the car on the way down "Danes gonna be out and you and his filmer are going to battle royal for the beach!" Chris laughed.  Sure enough, Danes out, its pumping, his filmer gives me the finger and I'm scared the whole session that he is going to walk up the rocks and kick my ass.  I survived, and so did Chris, although I think he has a new appreciation for this beach.

random

heres a random sequence of chris I thought was rad from a while back at Fairies...photo proof of an epic tale from mugu to come soon